Southern Maryland

Meanwhile in Virginia . . . in April . . . it SNOWED!!!  (This while our friends in Oregon had 80 degree days this past weekend!)

Last Saturday, we had planned a day trip to do more exploring in and around Southern Maryland. Although we woke up to 32 degrees and light snow, we decided to not let that take the carpe out of our diem.  We grabbed our winter coats and gloves, ate a hearty breakfast, and headed out the door.

Snow accumulation of about an inch on the side of the road in Maryland

The snow itself wasn't that bad, but the strong winds made it a little more miserable than originally anticipated, at least in the morning while the snow was falling.  

Accokeek and National Colonial Farm
We were basically starting our explorations in the area you can see on the other side of the Potomac River when you're looking east from Mt. Vernon (standing on the Virginia side of the river).

Near Accokeek, Maryland, an easy half hour drive from our house, lies Piscataway National Park, a 4,000+ acre nature preserve that is home to many diverse species of wildlife and beautiful natural habitats.

(Note: We had been to nearby Fort Washington, just north of Piscataway National Park, on another day trip we took to Maryland last year--see blog post "O'er the Land of the Free" if you want to read about that.)

The park, also home to the National Colonial Farm, is run by the Accokeek Foundation, which was founded in the 1950s to preserve the shoreline across from Mt. Vernon and operate the National Colonial Farm as well as the Ecosystem Farm (a working farm that teaches sustainable farming practices).

Pastoral scene leading into National Colonial Farm

The National Colonial Farm dates back to the 1770s.  It's a reconstructed living history site with costumed interpreters designed to show what life was like for every day southern Maryland tobacco planters back in the 1700s.

Sadly, it was just too cold and muddy to be pushing a wheelchair around an outdoor primitive historic site, so we took a quick peek at the farm buildings through the falling snow and decided we would save further exploration of this intriguing treasure for another day.

National Colonial Farm

Amish Country (Charlotte Hall, MD and surrounding countryside)

We headed southeast from there toward so-called "Amish Country" in St. Mary's County, which is apparently the largest of three Amish communities in Maryland.

If the weather had been better, I'm sure the Amish Farmer's Market in the library parking lot in Charlotte Hall would have been packed.  As it was, there were only a few farmers who had brought their wares through the snow that day, their horses and buggies tethered and waiting patiently for the end of the day.  We marveled at their beautiful flowers, hanging baskets, hand crafts, homemade preserves and soaps, fresh eggs, and we hungrily eyed the huge variety of baked goods.  The gluten-free folks in the family didn't partake, but those of us who tried the whoopie pies said they were delish!

Sharing the road with an Amish farmer later in the afternoon

We ventured off the beaten path on some rural roads en route to our next destination and enjoyed the glimpses we got of the many Amish farms that dot the countryside in this area, which stood out in stark contrast to their 21st century neighbors.

Historic St. Mary's County
We planned to spend the rest of the day in historic St. Mary's County, where Maryland was "born."  It contains the founding site and first capital of the Maryland colony dating back to the early 17th century.

St. Clement's Island is where it all began.

St. Clement's Island (off in the distance)

King Charles I of England granted land to George Calvert (Lord Baltimore), which was situated just north of the Chesapeake Bay.  About 140 Catholics, fleeing persecution from the Church of England, sailed across the Atlantic Ocean on two ships, the Ark and Dove, to colonize Lord Baltimore's land.

The colonists landed on St. Clement's Island on March 25, 1634.  King Charles I had asked that the new colony be named after his Queen Henrietta Maria, so the colony was named "Terrea Maria," the land of Mary.  The colonists celebrated the first Catholic mass in this new colony and took possession of what would later be called "Maryland" (Mary's land).  Because they had been persecuted in England, the colonists founded the colony on principles of religious tolerance, and this act is now recognized as the first official separation of church and state in the new world.

St. Clement’s Island is a half-mile off shore and is only accessible by water taxi that runs during the summer, so we weren't able to explore the island itself and see the reconstructed version of a mid-1800s lighthouse.  However, we did enjoy the St. Clement's Island Museum that is on the shore at the launching off point to the island.  Lots of great facts and information and cool stuff on display!

Potomac River Dory Boat on display outside museum

Punt Gun and Skiff (HUGE gun used for duck hunting)

Little Red Schoolhouse (c. 1820) next to museum

Point Lookout
Continuing south, we drove all the way down to Point Lookout, which is at the southernmost tip of St. Mary's County.  The Potomac River meets the Chesapeake Bay here, and the gusty winds, turbulent waters and stormy skies made for quite a wild scene.

Turbulent waters converging at Point Lookout

Point Lookout Lighthouse

For any "war" enthusiasts out there, there's also a lot of military history in this area.

During the Civil War, Southern Maryland was in Union territory but had a lot of Southern sympathizers living there with ties to the South.  Although there's no evidence of it today, there was a large Union hospital right at the tip of Point Lookout, and after the Battle of Gettysburg, tens of thousands of Confederate soldiers were held in the prisoner of war camp set up at Point Lookout.  We were disappointed that the Civil War Museum hadn't opened for the season yet, because we were hoping to see some of the artifacts and learn more about the role this area played in the Civil War.

During the War of 1812, the British fleet conducted raids all along the Patuxent and Potomac rivers, some of which were in and around St. Mary's County.  

St. Mary's Chapel (c. 1884, an Episcopal Church near Point Lookout)

Historic St. Mary's City

Our last stop of the day was Historic St. Mary's City, the site of Maryland's first capital, and also where St. Mary’s College, a public honors college, is located.

Historians have been excavating this historic city for the past 30+ years, having conducted more than 200 archaeological digs with more to come.  The historic city serves as a training center for archaeologists and is also the home of a field school where students come study in the summer and help with excavation.

Who knows?  This place might be the next Colonial Williamsburg in 30 years!  But in the meantime, it's a great living history site where you can see the work in progress.  They are painstakingly researching and reconstructing the historic capital city, building by building.

One thing we learned that was interesting is that unlike previous attempts to colonize the new world (such as the settlers at Jamestown), the English colonists who came to Maryland partnered with the Yaocomaco Indians to help them get started.  They bartered land from the Indians and used their dwellings (called "Witchotts"--Indian longhouses) as shelter.  The Indians gave them tools and taught them how to plan corn, which is probably why the settlers survived and stayed on to make a life here.

Here are a few pics from our quick tour around the historic city:

The boys enjoying the walking tour through the historic city

Reconstructed Brick Chapel of 1667, where Catholicism was founded in British North America

During excavation of the chapel in the 1990s, archaeologists discovered three lead coffins containing the remains of members of the Calvert family, including Phillip Calvert, who served as Governor of the colony.  These coffins were noteworthy because they were the first lead coffins found by archaeologists in North America (this was normally a burial practice of nobility in Europe).

Lead coffins containing remains of Calvert family members

Mackall Barn (c. 1785, one of the oldest standing wooden barns in MD)

17th century Demiculvern (iron cannon, c. 1630s?)

Blooming dogwood outside Farthing's Ordinary

What's an "ordinary," you say?  An ordinary was kind of like a motel and tavern and social gathering place all in one.  Weary travelers (and their horses) could get a place to sleep for the night, a hot meal, and a chance to rest and settle in by the fire to hear the latest gossip.

Kitchen and cooking area Inside the Smith Ordinary

Speaking to the Tavern Matron inside the Smith Ordinary

Trinity Episcopal Church (c. 1800s but built from bricks salvaged
from the original Maryland State House (c. 1676)

Maryland Dove tall ship—similar to the one that brought settlers from England

Full confession . . . our various preconceived notions about Maryland, whatever they were, have been way off the mark.  Each time we venture into different parts of our neighboring state, we discover the coolest things.

Can't wait to see what we come across next time we get a chance to explore!